cape royal and beyond

Last Sunday I finally made the 23 mile scenic drive out to Cape Royal, North Rim tourist destination extraodinaire. I wanted to do it all--I had been here for over 2 months but had yet to make the trip that I would suggest to our guests.

I headed out with Eric and Nate, watching the pink, purple, yellow, red, and blue wildflowers pass by as we drove on the winding road. Our first stop was at the Cape Final trailhead--a short trail, just 2 miles out, which I had heard a lot of great things about. The thermometer on my car crept up to 98 degrees and we slathered ourselves with sunscreen before heading out. The trail goes through the forest, and there are a few side-trails where you can stop to look out over the canyon and into the Painted Desert. Closer to the rim it become rockier and the prickly pear are more numerous and there are less trees to find comfort from the heat of the sun. Finally the trail rises up and there is a sign with an arrow denoting that this rocky ledge over there is Cape Final. Standing on the rocks, there are U.S.G.S. markers from the early 1900s, and the view of the Canyon is breathtaking.

Eric and Nate hiking the last bit up to Cape Final.

From there we drove the last couple miles to Cape Royal, where the trails are paved and only about a quarter-mile long. But the views here are also beautiful--no where else in the world is the Colorado River framed by a hole in a rock, named "Angel's Window." We walked on top of the thin ledge of rock making up the top of the famous window. Although I was happy there were railings keeping me from teetering over the edge, it reminded me of just how many people come out to this point every year.

View of the Grand Canyon from Cape Royal.

This is not "off the beaten path" in any way. It used to be, when Major John Wesley Powell made his infamous river trip through the canyon in 1869. It is difficult to both preserve a place and to make it available to the general public. Happily, the North Rim is still too far secluded to become as developed and visited as the South Rim. I can still pretend that I am alone on these trails, not all, but some.
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I have made some changes here. I am no longer a host in the dining room. Instead, I am the first female in years (at least 3) to work at the service station. For a slight-very slight- pay raise, I now pump gas, wash windshields, fill the air in tires, and rent out bicycles. Oh, and I also have plenty of down time after finishing my sidework to enjoy my book.
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On one of my last nights hosting, we had a rainstorm over the canyon and the rim. The rain misted down as the sun began to set. As the rain lifted and clouds began to part around the sun on the horizon, a rainbow formed just beyond the rim. I ran outside, it was a slow night, and gazed as the rainbow grew brighter. It arched over the rim and was lost behind the trees and I went back to work. There was chaos in the dining room, everyone was out of their seats and rushing to the windows or up the stairs to go outside and take pictures. I called tabled to seat, but no one came, no one wanted to leave the impressive sight. I ran out again, this time farther to the beginning of the short trail to Bright Angel Point. What I saw brought tears to my eyes, I had never seen such a beautiful sight--a complete arch, a double rainbow, both ends reaching into the canyon. Guests recognized me and I replied, "I really should get back to work." "But this is why you are here," one woman said. "I will vouch for you. Enjoy it." And I did.

View of the rainbow from the East Veranda (I borrowed a co-workers camera to get this).

When I went back to the host stand, dining room was still a mess, and people still weren't coming when called. The rainbow faded and I finished out the night with spirits lifted, my heart light. This is why I am here.